We’re in a cafe in Cottbus right now and due to go to Berlin tommorow and leave the countryside part of the trip behind. The trip is half over, feels like an epic, time is really slowing down for us.
We have been staying in a small town called Schmovgrov on the outskirts of Cottbus, which is the north Wendish capital, so after our trip to Buatzen in the Oberlausitz and general activity in Spreewald we have seen a lot of Wendish stuff in museums, but are concluding that the culture is on tourist-driven life support rather than thriving in any genuine way, and have yet to hear anyone speak the language. Got a Cd of some wendish dudelsack music which is awful and very funny, and also some great photos of our time in the Spree canals in a canoe. The few people people we have asked about the Wends looked at us as though we are acusing them of being gypsies or vagrants and I suspect there is still a lot of racism here towards the group, and hostility and suspicion towards the whole concept of a Slavic state within Germany.
People otherwise very friendly in Spreewald though, and the gurkens are actually delicious, despite our initial scepticism. We had elksteak, and pork with beer and cabbage, last night in Burg which was lovely. Have failed to find Erin a Wendish headdress that would not cost hundreds of dollars so have given up and bought her a cheap headband for one euro with which she is probably just as happy.
Berlin beckons with parks and museums and ease of transport not to be had in the backwoods where we are now.
We keep singing Cottbus City Limits to the tune (sic) of Nutbush City Limits by Tina Turner, which is not as funny as it was the first time, and wasn’t really then, either.
All are well,